If your well pump has stopped running, work through these checks in order before assuming the pump itself has failed — most “dead pump” calls turn out to be a tripped breaker, a failed pressure switch, or a waterlogged tank, not a burned-out motor.
What You’ll Need
A flashlight, a basic multimeter (optional, for the later steps), and access to your breaker panel and pressure tank. If your well is more than a few years old, it’s worth locating your pump’s model number and control box rating beforehand — you’ll want it if you end up calling a contractor.
1. Check the Circuit Breaker
The single most common cause. Power surges, lightning, or a brief overload can trip the breaker without damaging any equipment. Find the breaker for your well pump — it’s usually labeled, but if not, it’s often a double-pole 20-30 amp breaker since most well pumps run on 230V. Reset it fully (off, then on). If it trips again immediately, stop: that points to a short in the wiring or motor, and further troubleshooting should be left to an electrician.
2. Listen for the Pressure Switch
Have someone turn on a faucet while you listen near the pressure tank. A clicking sound means the pressure switch is trying to start the pump — the problem is likely downstream (motor, wiring, or control box). No click at all points to the pressure switch itself, or to a loss of power reaching it.
3. Inspect the Pressure Switch for Corrosion
With power off at the breaker, remove the pressure switch cover and look for burned, pitted, or corroded contacts, and check for insect nests blocking the mechanism (wasps and ants commonly nest in these enclosures). Corroded contacts are a frequent failure point, especially on switches more than 8-10 years old. A switch typically costs far less than a service call, so if the contacts look visibly burned, replacing it is often the fastest fix.
4. Check for a Waterlogged Pressure Tank
If the tank’s air bladder has failed, the pump will short-cycle (turning on and off rapidly) or fail to build pressure, and may seem like it “won’t turn on” when it’s actually cycling too fast to notice. Tap the tank at different heights — if it sounds solid or full all the way down rather than hollow near the top, the bladder may be waterlogged. Most residential tanks have a Schrader valve (like a tire valve) on top; if pressing it releases water instead of air, the bladder has failed and the tank needs replacing.
5. Check the Water Level
If the well itself has run low (drought, high demand, or a pump set too high above the well bottom), the pump may be cutting out on a low-water safety switch, if your system has one. This is more common in shallow or marginal wells during dry periods, and usually resolves once the water table recovers — running the pump dry repeatedly will burn it out, so don’t keep resetting the breaker if this is the cause.
6. Check the Control Box (for 3-Wire Submersible Pumps)
Submersible pumps with a 3-wire setup use a separate control box containing a start/run capacitor and relay, usually mounted near the pressure tank or breaker panel. A blown capacitor is a common failure, especially in older systems, and often shows visible bulging or leakage on the capacitor housing. Testing it properly requires a multimeter and knowing the capacitor’s rated microfarad (MFD) value — this step is usually best left to an electrician or well contractor, since the capacitor can hold a charge even with power off.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to troubleshoot a well pump myself?
Checking the breaker, listening for the pressure switch, and visually inspecting the tank are safe for most homeowners. Opening the control box, testing capacitors, or working inside the well casing involves live electrical components and should go to a licensed electrician or well contractor.
How do I know if the pump motor itself has failed?
If the breaker holds, the pressure switch clicks, the tank isn’t waterlogged, and the well has adequate water, but the pump still doesn’t run, the motor or wiring downstream is the likely culprit. That diagnosis needs a multimeter check at the pressure switch and control box, which is a job for a professional.
How much does it cost to fix a well pump that won’t turn on?
A pressure switch replacement typically runs $150-$300 installed. A waterlogged tank replacement is usually $300-$800 depending on tank size. A full pump replacement, which is only needed if the motor itself has failed, is significantly more and depends heavily on well depth and pump type.
When to Call a Professional
If you’ve reset the breaker, confirmed the pressure switch is clicking, and ruled out an obviously waterlogged tank, the issue is likely inside the pump, motor, or wiring. At that point, a licensed well contractor or electrician can safely diagnose it with a multimeter and well-specific test equipment.
This site contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate we may earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.